Ulysse Nardin: Diver [Air]

WORLD’S LIGHTEST MECHANICAL DIVE WATCH

PRESS RELEASE | 1148 WORDS | 11 MINUTE READ

Video Courtsey: Ulysse Nardin

HIGH HOROLOGY, HIGH TECHNOLOGY, HIGH PERFORMANCE

The first dive watches date all the way back to the 1950s, so it might seem that by now, the limits of what is possible, in terms of innovation, technical creativity, and performance would have been reached. Unless pushing boundaries is part of your DNA.

For the independent Swiss watch manufacturer Ulysse Nardin, limits are meant to be transcended, and for the latest edition of its Diver collection, the brand has gone beyond what is expected and even believed to be possible. Creating the new Diver [AIR], the lightest mechanical dive watch ever made.

High horology, high technology, high performance.

These are the three aspects to know about the Diver [AIR]. Three strengths that, on their own, are already impressive, now together for the first time in history. The Diver [AIR] is the impossible, made possible. “If it’s possible, it’s done. If it’s impossible, it will be done.” Paul-David Nardin, 1876.

HYBRIDISATION OF A SKELETON AND A SPORT WATCH

Ulysse Nardin ventured into the diving scene much earlier than most, creating its first waterproof instrument in 1893, its first dive watch in 1964, and the Aqua Perpetual, in 2001, the first and only water-resistant dive watch to 200 metres featuring a perpetual calendar.

In 2021, the brand introduced the Diver X Skeleton, a timepiece that revolutionised the industry by combining skeletonisation with a dive watch. In fact, today, many collectors acquire a dive watch as a robust, everyday timepiece that can withstand impact, and they often also add a high horology piece to their collection—a prized jewel worn with care. Ulysse Nardin envisioned a watch that seamlessly combines the best of both worlds.

That was a breakthrough, but this is Ulysse Nardin, and so laurels are definitely not for resting on. To truly make this the ultimate high horology sport watch, it could be even better. Stronger, sleeker—but most importantly, lighter.

Introducing the new Diver [AIR], a skeletonised high horology s port watch designed for the extremes, that is going to have its weight cut in half.

WORLD’S LIGHTEST MECHANICAL DIVE WATCH

For perspective, the Ulysse Nardin Diver 44mm released in 2019 weighs 120.5g, as would be expected for a sturdy, robust dive watch. The Diver X Skeleton from 2021 cuts an impressive 15g off that mass for a total weight of 105.8g, which, considering how much empty space there is inside that skeletonised calibre, demonstrates how much of a challenge cutting back on weight really is. And yet the Diver [AIR] manages to lose an incredible 68.6g from the Diver 44mm and comes in at less than half of the Diver X Skeleton, which seems, frankly, unrealistic.

Here’s how.

Building upon the foundation of the Diver X Skeleton UN-372 movement, Ulysse Nardin developed a new, innovative, high tech calibre, the UN-374, which had to be entirely rethought and redesigned. To achieve the Diver [AIR]’s exceptionally light weight of just 52g, including the strap, and under 46g without it, material had to be removed from the Diver X Skeleton’s calibre, while ensuring the watch’s reliability and performance remained uncompromised.

To do so, Ulysse Nardin’s designers endeavored to remove material in the movement, to counterintuitively make it, somehow, even stronger. More robust. As mass was reduced, what was left was also reconfigured to bring further resilience to its structure. This was done by using the slender bridges to form triangles, a rigid shape found in engineering and architecture to resist bending and warping, an expertise Ulysse Nardin has developed for over thirty years since its first skeletonised watch.

Despite the space inside the watch being 80% air and just 20% material (the watch movement), the highly skeletonised calibre UN-374 can withstand an impact of an impressive 5’000g. It has also been tested for general knocks and vibrations, cycling thousands of shocks over several days, and not just in the lab, but in real-world use too, putting the watch through its paces to prove it can be worthy of the Ulysse Nardin name.

A closer look at the new calibre reveals the extent to which Ulysse Nardin has gone to reduce mass without compromising performance. The bridges are barely a few millimeters wide, hollowed out to save even more weight, while the winding rotor has been minimised to the essentials. The mainspring barrel, where the power is stored, has been reconfigured into a flying arrangement to reduce the mass of the top bridge. Material has even been stripped from the barrel itself to lighten it further, bringing the total weight of the calibre down to just 7g—less than half the weight of the already lightweight Diver Skeleton X’s movement. Some components have also been redesigned—not only for optimal performance but to achieve a visual balance that enhances its overall appeal. After all, who doesn’t like a watch that looks as good as it performs?

You may be wondering why Ulysse Nardin chose not to remove the automatic winding mechanism from the Diver [AIR] to reduce weight further. The answer lies in the stringent official standards that a dive watch must meet, with automatic winding being one of those essential criteria. Additionally, the calibre UN-374 boasts an impressive 90-hour power reserve, thanks to its innovative flying barrel. The Diver [AIR] is equipped with two ultralight, elasticated s traps in white and orange for comfort, fastened with a scratch closing for added practicality. These straps are easily interchangeable, without the need for any tools, ensuring the watch remains as [ 15] versatile as it is functional.

DIVER [AIR] : AN INNOVATION LAB

Creating the lightest mechanical dive watch requires more than removing metal. To achieve this, Ulysse Nardin turned to the periodic table, leveraging over 20 years of expertise in high-tech materials, ultimately pushing the UN-374 calibre into record breaking ultralight territory.

NEXT-GEN MATERIALS

Ulysse Nardin has incorporated titanium into their watch movements for the first time, offering an optimal combination of durability and lightness. Titanium, at 4.5g/cm³, is 45% stronger than steel but difficult to process. The watch features a silicon escapement, half the weight of a standard balance. The 44mm case uses modular construction with titanium and carbon fibre, with carbon fibre’s 1.8g/cm³ density providing significant weight savings. The titanium middle case ensures 200m water resistance, crucial for withstanding 170kg of pressure on the sapphire glass at that depth.

INNOVATIVE ECOSYSTEM

Ulysse Nardin partnered with market leaders and start-ups for the Diver [AIR] project, taking innovation further. The titanium in its movement and middle case is 90% recycled, sourced from TiFast and processed by Thyssenkrupp. The side case parts use Nylo®-Foil, a blend of 60% Nylo® from ocean netting and 40% carbon fibre from IMOCA boats, recycled by Extracthive and processed by Lavoisier Composites. The bezel insert is forged from upcycled CarbonFoil, and the escapement is made from an upcycled silicon wafer by Sigatec.

For further information visit ulysse-nardin.com