Iconic Timepieces By Patek Philippe, Rolex, F.P.Journe, Biver, And A. Lange & Sohne Lead The New York Watch Auction: XII At Phillips
Timeless watch legends
AUCTION NEWS | 2529 WORDS | 25 MIN READ
Marquee Sale on 7-8 June to Include the Historic Rolex “Die to Drive” “Big Red” Daytona of Formula One Legend Jean-Pierre Jabouille, Gifted to the Driver by Renault and a Space-Flown Omega Speedmaster
Sale to be Led by an Exceptional Patek Philippe reference 1518, Appearing at Auction for the First Time in Nearly Four Decades
NEW YORK – 13 MAY 2025 – Phillips is proud to present the full catalogue for The New York Watch Auction: XII. Defined by extraordinary auction debuts, the two-day sale on 7-8 June will feature 144 lots, many of which are being offered publicly for the very first time, including important examples from both legacy brands and independent makers alike. Led by a yellow gold Patek Philippe reference 1518 that has remained in the same collection for nearly forty years, the sale will also feature the first commercially sold Biver Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater with serial number 1, as well as an F.P.Journe Répétition Souveraine with smoked sapphire dial. The auction will also include racing legend Jean-Pierre Jabouille’s cherished Rolex Daytona, which was gifted to the driver by Renault on the occasion of his Grand Prix win in 1979. Leading up to the auction, all lots will be exhibited at 432 Park Avenue from 4-6 June.
Paul Boutros, Deputy Chairman and Head of Watches, Americas, and Isabella Proia, Head of Sale and International Specialist, jointly said, “2024 was a record-breaking year for Phillips Watches in New York, marking the fourth consecutive year of 100%-sold auctions and setting a new benchmark for the highest auction total in U.S. history. On the heels of these achievements and the success we have already seen this year in Geneva and Hong Kong, we are delighted continue the momentum, as we present the catalogue for The New York Watch Auction: XII, featuring extraordinary 20th- and 21st-century collectors’ watches, many of which come from the original owners or their families, or are long-held timepieces that haven’t been seen publicly in decades. From an incredible Patek Philippe reference 1518 in 18K yellow gold that has remained unworn by its owner since being acquired in 1989, to the historic Rolex “Die to Drive” “Big Red” Daytona of Formula One great Jean-Pierre Jabouille and consigned by his son, our sale presents something for collectors of all levels and interests. We look forward to welcoming the community through our doors at 432 Park Avenue when our exhibition opens to the public on 4 June.”
Lot 20 | PATEK PHILIPPE
Estimate: $400,000 – 800,000
Ref. 1518, 1950
Leading the auction is an exceptional yellow gold Patek Philippe reference 1518, being offered for the first time in nearly 40 years. When Patek Philippe released the reference 1518 in 1941, they introduced a milestone wristwatch that today is considered one of the most important watches of the 20th century. Hailing from a prestigious private American collection, the superlative example impresses with its exceptional state of preservation; its owner kept it stored at all times in a humidity-protected vault, having never worn it since acquiring it at auction in 1989. Its case retains its original factory finishing with full, thick lugs indicative of hardly any use and showing no signs of a previous polishing. The dial is equally stunning showing no aging or any signs of prior interventions, with all of its original, raised hard enamel graphics remaining full and vibrant. This iconic model is a must-have for any serious collector of vintage Patek Philippe watches, and when such a well-preserved example comes to the market, it ticks all the boxes that collectors and scholars alike seek in a legendary vintage watch.
Lot 96 | PATEK PHILIPPE
Estimate: $300,000 – 600,000
Ref. 530, 1956
An extremely rare, pink gold Patek Philippe reference 530 chronograph, which has never been seen at public auction, will also be offered in The New York Watch Auction: XII. With a production timeline spanning from 1937 until 1962, only approximately 140 examples are believed to have been produced, all of which were only offered to important clients, never appearing in the brand’s catalogues. Out of those 140 examples, only approximately 30 were made in pink gold, making it one of the scarcest serially produced pink gold chronograph wristwatches by Patek Philippe. To date, only 15 pink gold examples have ever appeared on the market. Bearing a 36.5mm case diameter, its important size, while making it an incredibly attractive timepiece for today’s tastes, is also the reason for its scarce production, as it was deemed too prominent on the wrist in the 1940s and 1950s. The present example is beautifully preserved, with its original dial having acquired a gorgeous ivory tone, while its case is sharp with perfectly crisp hallmarks. Combining a contemporary size and quintessentially vintage design, this premium reference 530, with its freshness to the market and impeccable provenance, will be fiercely contended by Patek Philippe collectors all over the world.
Lot 95 | PATEK PHILIPPE
Estimate: $200,000 – 400,000
Ref. 570, 1942
A fresh-to-market Patek Philippe reference 570 in breathtaking condition also makes its auction debut in June. At the pinnacle of reference 570 and all vintage Patek Philippe collecting, we find the three-tone dials with applied Breguet numerals. A perfect combination of styles, these dials strike an incredible balance between flair and restrained elegance: the overall tone-on-tone result does not feel excessive or overly decorated. It is not a surprise that this dial style was re-interpreted in the modern era—and actually with very few modifications—on the reference 5196P first introduced in 2004. The rarity of this configuration of stainless steel 570 cannot be overstated. In our research, only four examples of a stainless steel 570 with large Breguet numerals and three-tone dial are known to the public, of which this is the fourth. The watch’s provenance is perhaps equally as compelling as the timepiece itself. Purchased at a National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors’ “watch mart” in the early 2000s, its custodian for the past two decades is a former military watchmaker and avid collector. Finally deciding to let go of one of the stars of his collection, Phillips is honored to have been entrusted with such an extraordinary example of an already extremely rare configuration. The absolute beauty, elusiveness, and originality of this reference 570 makes it one of the most important, well-preserved, and sought-after time-only wristwatches in the history of watchmaking.
Lot 94 | PATEK PHILIPPE
Estimate: $150,000 – 300,000
Ref. 3970, 1988
The reference 3970 was the first Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph to indicate leap years, and the first to add a 24-hour indicator. The present 3970 in 18K yellow gold also features the solid screw-back case, feuille hands, and baton indexes indicative of the highly desirable second series. While Patek Philippe’s reference 3970 itself is a highly desirable timepiece, the real draw of the example being offered by Phillips lies in the most visible component—the dial. Fitted with a doré dial, sometimes referred to as opaline-gilt or champagne, only a very small number of 3970s are known to be fitted with this specific matte golden dial. Research shows that nine examples with doré dial across references 3970 and 3971 have appeared at auction, of which the present lot is the fourth 3970 example. It is also completely fresh to the auction market. With the popularity of these extremely rare 3970s having grown in the past few years, the fact remains that very few were made and even fewer have appeared in public. Thus, the current example presents an exciting opportunity to obtain one of the rarest iterations of an absolute classic.
Lot 88 | ROLEX, Cosmograph “Big Red” Daytona
Estimate: $50,000 - 100,000
Ref. 6265, 1972
Phillips is proud to present a historic Rolex “Big Red” Daytona Ref. 6265, once owned by legendary French Formula One driver Jean-Pierre Jabouille. Gifted by Renault to commemorate Jabouille’s groundbreaking 1979 French Grand Prix victory—the first for both Renault and a French racing team—the watch features an incredible caseback engraving: “DIE TO DRIVE – RENAULT F1 – J.P.J. 79.” Accompanied by a heartfelt letter from Jabouille’s son, the consignor of the watch, this timepiece celebrates a pioneering moment in motorsport history and reflects the enduring legacy of a driver who helped revolutionize Formula One. Fitted with original “millerighe” mark I pushers and a correct 1979 “Big Red” dial for the year it was sold, this rare Daytona has remained in the Jabouille family for nearly fifty years. A true collector’s trophy, it encapsulates the passion, innovation, and national pride that defined a golden era of racing.
Lot 68 | ROLEX, Cosmograph Daytona “Rainbow”, 2023
Estimate: $250,000 - 500,000
After years of introducing various gem-set wristwatches, in 2012 Rolex introduced their most spectacular, serially produced, gem-set Cosmograph Daytona yet—the Rainbow. Originally only available in yellow and white gold, it was not until 2018 that the present 116595 in Everose, or pink gold, was released. The attention and precision on each "RBOW" is extraordinary, as every single sapphire and gemstone used is internally flawless and perfectly cut to fit without prongs into the bezel. The lugs are furthermore set with diamonds, to enhance the colorful nature of the watch. Due to the obvious difficulty in sourcing such flawless stones, the production numbers of such timepieces remains extremely low, and across all metals, few have surfaced at auction. Of the few Rainbow variants known to exist in pink gold, the present watch is one of the most lavish and eye-catching, with fitted pavé diamonds on the dial. Virtually impossible to acquire, even for longstanding customers of Rolex, the present Rainbow Daytona is offered in virtually brand-new condition by its original owner.
Lot 84 | HARRY WINSTON x F.P.JOURNE, Chronométre A Resonance Piece Unique, 2002
Estimate: $300,000 - 600,000
Maximilian Büsser, the creative mastermind behind haute horology, initiated the Opus One project during his tenure as CEO of Harry Winston Timepieces in the early 2000s. He collaborated with independent watchmakers to create unique timepieces that combined Harry Winston's DNA with the watchmaker's signature style, prominently displaying the watchmaker's name. The first collaboration was with F.P.Journe, who had recently launched his brand with three references, which were transformed into three versions of the Opus One, each limited to six pieces, featuring the Harry Winston case and Journe's movement and dial layout. This unique Opus One Chronomètre à Résonance, with its black dial and luxurious diamond settings, exemplifies the ultimate black-tie luxury watch. Offered as a full set, it remains in outstanding condition, making it a coveted piece for collectors of ultra-rare timepieces.
Lot 28 | Biver, Carillon Tourbillon, 2023
Estimate: $300,000 - 600,000
The inaugural creation of the brand, the Biver Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater, is a symphonic masterpiece of contemporary haute horology. It marries classical craftsmanship with cutting-edge acoustic engineering, anchored by one of the most exalted complications in watchmaking: the carillon minute repeater. Unlike traditional minute repeaters, the carillon features three hammers striking three gongs on three distinct notes, producing a richer and more resonant tonal architecture. The dial is a marvel: a ring of silvered obsidian — a hard stone known to confer dynamism and optimism — encircles the open-worked architecture. It is a material of striking visual energy and rare watchmaking application. The present titanium example is Watch No. 1, the first piece produced after the original prototype — the very first customer-delivered Biver timepiece. The prototype, proudly offered by Phillips in 2023, achieved a remarkable result of CHF 1,270,000, signaling to collectors the significance of this new chapter in independent watchmaking. No. 1 thus represents a landmark — the tangible beginning of the Biver legacy.
Lot 82 | F.P.JOURNE, Répétition Souveraine, 2023
Estimate: $200,000 - 400,000
In 2008, Journe unveiled the Répétition Souveraine, an ultra-thin minute repeater encased in stainless steel—an unexpected material for such a prestigious complication. While minute repeaters are traditionally housed in precious metals, Journe deliberately chose steel for its superior acoustic properties, allowing the chimes to resonate with remarkable clarity. The present Répétition Souveraine represents a contemporary evolution of the model, now featuring a striking smoked sapphire dial—a modern and captivating enhancement to an already revolutionary timepiece. This translucent dial offers an intimate view into the watch’s intricate mechanics, allowing the wearer to observe the synchronized performance of the hammers, gongs, and the ultra-thin movement, all exquisitely crafted in 18K rose gold. Offered by the original owner and presented in pristine condition, the present wristwatch beautifully exemplifies Journe’s ability to harmonize classical horology with pioneering technical advancements.
Lot 11 | A. Lange & Söhne, 1815 Chronograph “Concorso”, 2022
Estimate: $100,000 - 200,000
Phillips is honored to offer this unique and extraordinary white gold flyback chronograph wristwatch presented to the 2022 Best of Show at the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este. Launched in 2004 to commemorate his great-grandfather’s birth in 1815, Walter Lange introduced the 1815 collection and thus marked the first new Lange line since their original quartet of watches released in 1994. The collection included the superb 1815 Chronograph with flyback reset function. It masterfully blended traditional watchmaking with 21st-century engineering, encapsulated by the caliber 951—Lange’s esteemed chronograph movement, first introduced in the Datograph in 1999. The present 1815 Chronograph “Concorso” displays a spectacular pink gold dial with brown subsidiary dials – a feature not seen before for this reference. As the top prize for one of the world’s most prestigious car concourse events, this unique model has a hinged caseback that is exquisitely hand engraved – the result of 9 days of labor – with the Concorso coat of arms, along with the year. The present, “1 of 1” watch is the very first Lange timepiece awarded to a concourse winner to be offered publicly. Consigned by its original owner complete with its full suite of accessories, it presents an extremely rare opportunity for collectors.
Lot 17 | OMEGA, Speedmaster Professional “MIR 365 Days”, 1995
Estimate: $50,000 to $100,000
The present Omega Speedmaster is extraordinary, as it was used in space for 365 days at the MIR space station, earning the coveted title of a "space-flown" wristwatch. The main objective of the MIR space station was conducting study projects on microgravity, and the study of the effects of long-term human spaceflight. In July 1993, during one of those studies, 35 Speedmaster Professional watches were taken on the space station for 365 days to study and observe the effects of microgravity on the mechanism of a watch. Out of those 35 examples, 28 were cased in stainless steel and 7 in yellow gold – like the present example. Only after their successful return to Earth and after a thorough examination from Omega were they offered for sale to the public, with a dedicated inscription on the caseback. Offered to the public for the first time ever, the present Speedmaster MIR 365 Days is numbered 2 of 7 – the exact example illustrated in the tome, Moonwatch Only. Coming from an important private collection and preserved in outstanding condition, it is the fourth yellow gold example to appear at public auction.
Additional Highlights
Auction: 7-8 June 2025
Auction viewing: 4-6 June 2025
Location: 432 Park Avenue, New York, NY
*Estimates do not include buyer’s premium; prices achieved include the hammer price plus buyer’s premium.
For further information visit phillips.com, phillips.com/auction