Phillips to Offer 16 Rare Rolex Chronographs from the Pucci Papaleo Collection

The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV will feature a selection spanning the 1930s to the 1970s, including rare Daytona variants and exceptionally preserved early chronographs.

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Photo Courtesy: Phillips

Sixteen Watches, Three Decades of Collecting

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo will present Part I of the Pucci Papaleo Collection of Rolex chronographs at The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV on 7 and 8 November 2026. The selection comprises 16 watches assembled over more than three decades by Italian collector, author and publisher Pucci Papaleo.

The collection traces the evolution of Rolex chronographs from the 1930s through the 1970s, with an emphasis on rarity, originality and condition. Early Oyster chronographs, unusual case designs and distinctive Cosmograph Daytona dials illustrate the technical and aesthetic development of the brand’s chronograph watches.

Five Standout Watches

Rolex Ref. 3525 “Bariletto” — Circa 1939

Introduced in 1939, the Ref. 3525 was Rolex’s first chronograph wristwatch housed in an Oyster case, combining chronograph functionality with a screw-down crown and caseback.

This stainless-steel example features a multi-scale dial that has developed a warm vanilla tone and is signed by Australian retailer Prouds. Its sharply defined bezel steps and preserved brushed surfaces distinguish it as an especially well-preserved example. It is also reported to be the only known Ref. 3525 on the market bearing the Prouds signature.

Rolex Ref. 3335 in Pink Gold — Circa 1941

The Ref. 3335 stands out among Rolex’s early chronographs for its substantial 37mm case, concave bezel and oversized 12-hour register.

This example combines an 18k pink gold case with a pink dial signed by Monetti, the Naples-based retailer founded in 1904. Pronounced bevels, a clearly defined hallmark and crisp dial printing highlight its condition and the distinctive character of early Rolex chronograph design.

Rolex Ref. 3830 in Yellow Gold — Circa 1941

One of the collection’s most unusual pieces, the Ref. 3830 departs from the round case designs more commonly associated with Rolex during the period. Its square 18k yellow gold case features stepped construction, a recessed crown and sharply defined facets.

The champagne dial includes Arabic numerals, a spiral tachymeter scale and the signature of Milan retailer Verga. According to Phillips’ research, the watch is most probably unique, with no other example of the reference known to have appeared at auction.

Rolex Ref. 6239 “Paul Newman Musketeer” — Circa 1969

The Ref. 6239 was the first reference in the Cosmograph Daytona family, introduced in 1963, and the first Rolex chronograph to place its tachymeter scale on the bezel.

This stainless-steel example is distinguished by its rare black “Paul Newman Musketeer” dial. Unlike standard Paul Newman dials, the subsidiary registers feature partially textured surfaces that transition into smooth outer sections. The watch retains well-preserved dial graphics and luminous markers and is accompanied by its original Rolex guarantee and presentation box.

Rolex Ref. 6264 “Paul Newman Lemon” — Circa 1970

Among the collection’s key highlights is a Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6264 in 14k yellow gold, distinguished by its unusual creamy yellow “Paul Newman Lemon” dial.

Phillips describes it as possibly unique within the celebrated 2.3 million serial range. Its sharply defined case and exceptionally preserved dial make it a notable example of the rarer variations within the vintage Daytona family.

Pucci Papaleo: Collector and Rolex Scholar

Based in Rome, Pucci Papaleo has spent more than three decades studying and collecting vintage Rolex chronographs. His work extends beyond collecting into publishing, photography and research, documenting variations in dial configurations, case construction, typography and other defining details.

His publications include I Cronografi Rolex – La Leggenda, released in 2004, and Ultimate Rolex Daytona, published in 2012. He also collaborated with Aurel Bacs and Livia Russo on landmark thematic auctions, including Daytona Lesson One in 2013 and Daytona Ultimatum in 2018.

The broader Pucci Papaleo Collection comprises approximately 70 watches. Part I presents 16 examples selected to illustrate key stages in Rolex chronograph development.

Auction and Exhibition Details

Ahead of the Geneva sale, selected watches from the collection are scheduled to appear in international previews in Dubai, New York, Singapore, Hong Kong, Riyadh and London. The collection will return to Geneva for the final preview from 4 to 7 November 2026.

Availability

The 16 Rolex chronographs from the Pucci Papaleo Collection will be offered by Phillips at The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV on 7–8 November 2026, at Hotel President, Geneva, Switzerland.
For further information, visit: https://www.phillips.com/